Alternate method of joining

 

Introduction:

The process which have been developed as alternative to sewing are known as alternative methods of joining. Three methods are used instead of sewing, these are:

1. Welding 
2. Adhesive
3. Moulding
4. Fusing

Welding:

Welding is the process of garment manufacturing which involve the joining together of thermoplastic materials by applying heat externally. It is mostly used in hems.
Basic procedure of the method:

1. Heat applied on the fabric
2. Melting of thermoplastic materials
3. Applying pressure on melted material
4. Creation of bonding
5. Cooling
6. Fabric joined 

Adhesive:

Adhesive is a substance which is sticky and used for joining the fabric. It is mostly used in edge neatening, water proofing seam etc. Adhesive can be used by the following ways-

• A coating of thin adhesive film on silicon paper which is transferred to the fabric and the plies of the fabric are joined.
• A material which melts by applying heat and helps to join the fabric layers.

Moulding:

By moulding method the required definite shape of garments is found without creating seam.

Basic procedure of the method:

1. The desired shape by shrinkage
2. Heat apply
3. Thermoplastic fiber in fabric becomes soften
4. Cooling
5. Desired shape

Fusing:

• It is most usable alternative method of fabric joining.
• The joining of interlining by sewing is replaced b fusing.
• The main fabric of interlining contains resin or polymer coating.
• Resin or polymer coating side of interlining is placed on the underside of shell fabric.
• By spreading this on smooth surface heat and pressure is applied uniformly.
• As a result of heating polymer coating or resin melts and for pressure this melted polymer enters into the fiber of interlining and shell fabric.
• After drying shell fabric and interlining is joined by the forming bonds between them.

Basic principle of Flat bed press for fusing materials

• First place shell fabric on to the buck
• Placed interlining on to the shell fabric
• Keep head on to the buck
• Select time and pressure
• Switch on
• Then head will give pressure and heat
• Polymer coating or resin will melt for heating
• For pressure melted polymer will enter into the fibre of shell fabric and interlining
• After drying formation of boning
• After certain period time machine will automatically stop
• Finally we will get the fused components

Pressing

Pressing is the process to remove unwanted crease and crinkles from the fabric to give it smoothness, lustrous and fine appearance.

Objects of pressing:

• Removal of unwanted creases and crinkles
• To apply crease where necessary
• Shaping
• Under pressing
• Final pressing

Categories of Pressing:

• No Pressing.
• Minimum Pressing.
• Under Pressing.
• Final Pressing.
• Permanent Pressing.

Pressing equipment & methods:

• Different types of pressing machine is used for different types of pressing as follows-
• Iron (traditional, electric, steam iron)
• Steam process( Head and buck)
• Steam air finish or dolly press (form or dummy without sleeve:8 sec steam+ 8 sec hot air)
• Steam tunnel (hanger with moving rail, temperature controlling chamber)