Apparel Manufacturing III

 

                                                                              Garment Washing

                       Apparel Manufacturing III Lab

Table of Contents

 

SL. No.	Focal/ Mooting Points	Page No.
1.	Introduction	3
2.	Garments washing	4-6
3.	Washing Machine	6-10
4.	Different types of Machines used in Meridian washing plant Ltd:	11
5.	Function of washing chemicals	12-18
7.	Brief  Discussion about this Washing process	19-31
8.	WRITE DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING FAULTS	32
9.	Some Definitions & Wrinkle	33-36
10	Limitations & Conclusion	37

Garment Washing

 

 DEFINITION OF GARMENT WASHING:

The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfort ability and fashion of the garments is called garment washing.

Depending on garments construction different types of washing process can be done.

Twill/Canvas/Knitted/Corduroy - Normal wash, Pigment wash, Caustic, Si wash

Denim/Jeans/Gabardine - Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Bleach wash, Acid wash

Grey fabric- Super white wash

 

Types of Garment Washing: 

The different types/methods of washing are mentioned below: 

Primarily garment washing are two types 

1. Wet process/Chemical process 
2. Dry process/Mechanical process 

Wet process/Chemical process

• Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash
• Pigment wash
• Caustic wash
• Enzyme wash
• Stone wash
• Stone enzyme wash
• Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing)
• Super white wash
• Bleach wash
• Acid wash
• Silicon wash
• Soft wash

 

 

 

Dry process/Mechanical process

• Sand blasting
• Hands scraping
• Over all wrinkles
• Permanent wrinkle
• Broken and tagging
• Grinding and destroy
• PP spray and PP sponging etc.

 

Procedure of Garment Washing:

1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present). 
2. Load machine with garments. 
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. 
4. Drain. 
5. Rinse. 
6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used. 

7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect. 
8. Drain and rinse. 
9. Apply softener. 
10. Tumble dry. 
11. Invert garments, if previously turned. 
12. Press, if required. 

Purpose of Garments Washing:

Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the following way:-

1.      Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.

2.      By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments which also seem the best touch of garments.

 

3.      Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whiskering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spoon zing etc. Which also seems the best touch of garments.

4.      The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.

5.      When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.

6.      To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments.

 

7.      Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments.

8.      Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing.

9.      To remove hairiness of garments to make it comfortable to wear.

Advantages of Garment Washing:

• Starch materials is present in the new fabrics of he new garment are removed, hence feels soft during use.
• Softness feeling of garments could be further increased. Washed garment could be wear directly after purchase from store.
• Fading affect is produced in the garment in regular or irregular pattern.
• Fading affect could be produced in the specific area of the garment as per specific design.
• Different outlook of garment could be produced in the garment by different washing techniques.
• Similar outlook can be produced in the garments by different washing techniques.
• Initial investment cost to set up a garment washing plant is comparatively lower.
• Dirts and spots if present in the garment are romoved.
• Shrinkage occurs in the garment washing, hence no possibility of further shrinkage.

What is Washing Machine? 
Washing machine is the machine used to wash the various types of clothes without applying any physical efforts. With washing machine you don't have to rub the clothes with hand or squeeze them to remove the water from them. The washing machine is also called as clothes washer or simply the washer. 

Type of Garment Washing Machine:

1.      Front Loading Washing Machine.

2.      Side Loading Washing Machine.

3.      Top loading washing machine.

4.      Stone Washing Machine.

 

5.      Semi-automatic washing machine.

6.      Fully automatic machine.

Front Loading Washing Machine:

 

 

Front Loading Washing Machine

 

 

 

Features of Front Loading Washing Machine:

• Available with complete stainless steel inner & outer drum Front door.
• Long lasting rust free operation.
• Auto timed, auto reverse, auto temperature control.
• Auto Water Level Control
• Electrically operated water & steam valves.
• Separate motors for wash & extract.
• Ideally suited for laundry wash & stone wash.
• Easy loading & unloading through large toughened glass door

 

 

 

 

Side Loading Washing Machine:

 

 

 

Side Loading Washing Machine

 

 

Features of Side Loading Washing Machine:

• Electrically & mechanically interlocked, S.S.Loading & Unloading doors
• Drive : Heavy duty motor co-ordinates with gear box, Pully V Belt drive
• Electrical Control : Well protected for performance auto timed, auto reverse & auto digital temperature control
• Protective device against single phasing, reverse phasing and motor overload
• Gauge glass cork pair for water level indication.
• Front display of controls through pilot lamps, push buttons, water level indication etc.
• Electric, Steam or thermal fluid heated
• Automatic features like auto timed, auto reverse, auto temperature controller with inching devise.
• Side Loading, open pocket, single & Double door, ideal for larger laundries
• Performs all Type of wash with soap, detergent, bleaching, acid, stone or any chemical wash including dying
• Ideally suited for Denim/Stone Washing, Enzyme Washing, Garment Dying & Bleaching, Softening, Milling Operation (for woolens)
• Interlocking system for main door opening for extra safety

 

Top loading washing machine:

In this washing machine the clothes are loaded from the top of the washing machine. There is a cover at the top that helps loading and unloading of clothes in the round vessel that perform the function of the washer as well as the rinser and drier in the fully automatic washing machine.

Top loading washing machine

 Parts of the Washing Machine

 

Parts of the Washing Machine

1.      Water inlet control valve

2.      Water pump

3.      Tub

4.      Agitator or rotating disc

5.      Motor of the washing

6.      Timer

7.      Printed circuit board (PCB)

8.      Drain pipe

 

 

Different types of Machines used in Meridian washing plant Ltd:

     Sample washing machine (horizontal/vertical)

     Washing machine

     Hydro extractor machine

     Dryer machine (gas)

     Dryer machine (steam)

     Chemical mixture machine

     Boiler

     Pump

     Grinding machine

     Tagging machine

     Steam chamber for crinkle

     E.T.P

     Generator

     Spray gun and dummy

 

Chemical names which are used in washing plant 

• Enzyme
• Acetic acid [CH3-COOH]
• Detergent
• Ant staining agent
• Bleaching powder [ Ca (OCl) CL]
• Sodium hyposulfite [Na2S2O2]
• Caustic soda [NaOH]
• Soda ash [Na2CO3]
• Sodium bicarbonate [NaHCO3]
• Potassium permanganate [KMnO4]
• Cationic/ nonionic flax softener
• Micro emulsion silicon
• Salt
• Buffer
• Hydrogen peroxide [H202]
• Stabilizer
• Fixing agent
• Optical brightener
• Resin

 

 

 

 

Function of washing chemicals:
Anti-staining Agent 
A mixture of special macromolecules and surfactants, especially for anti-back staining during desizing and washing in denim rinsing. The basic problem in enzymatic washing of denim is back- staining of detached indigo dyes on fabric surface. Hence, it reduces the contrast effect/fading effect, which garment washer want to produce on denim. 

Characteristics and advantage:

1.      Has good emulsifying, dispersing and absorbing ability for indigo dyes, can revent indigo back staining and improve color contrast and fabric brilliance.

2.      Can improve color fastness after stone washing.

3.      Be used with enzyme or used general washing process, improve effect of washing.

4.      Be high concentrated, dilute it before using, stable diluted solution, easily used.

Potassium Permanganate 

Fig: potassium permanganate

After desizing it is sprayed in garments area, It helps for color out from garment during Enzyme wash. Potassium permanganate (KMno4 + H3Po4 + H2O) solution applied or stray on the garments so oxidizes the cellulose & color is partially removed according to the intensity & solution. 

The process of acid washing jeans used chemicals, stripping off the color of the top layer, leaving the white fabric exposed. The color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look. Acid washing could be done overall or made to look splotchy treated with potassium permanganate. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caustic soda (NaOH)
Caustic soda is a deliquescent white crystalline solid, which readily absorbs moisture and carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It is used for mercerizing cotton. 

Function of caustic soda 

• Caustic is the strong alkali used in garments washing to introduce an alkaline condition.
• Caustic created the role in bleach technique without color change the garments.
• Caustic has a cleaning power which is more powerful than soda Ash.
• Fading affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments by the action of caustic soda.

SODA ASH (Na2Co3) 
Sodium carbonate is a white crystalline solid containing water of crystallization. It is used in laundry as washing soda. It is also used for softening water. 

 

Function of soda ash 

• Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye.
• It has a cleaning power.

 

Detergent 
Detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. During coming these impurities, some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed or printed area of the garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.

The simplest way to inactivate any detergents left in the fabric is to neutralize the pH to between 6.5 and 7.5 through addition of a small amount of acetic acid. Through this method, the activity of the alkali and surfactants is eliminated. 

 

Acetic Acid (CH3COOH) 
Acetic acid is a colorless and corrosive liquid with pungent smell of its own. It is miscible with water, alcohol and ether in all proportions. Acetic acid is used in garment industry for dyeing purposes. 

Acetic acid is a weak organic acid - the key ingredient in vinegar. It is readily degradable and has no adverse effects in the environment except for the use of oxygen for degradation. It is also readily degradable under anaerobic conditions.4 


Function of acetic acid 

• Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.
• Acetic acid is not a fabric softener in principle but is often used for this purpose in professional laundries.4
• Acetic Acid is used in Enzyme bath
• Acetic acid has to be stored and handled with care

Function of sodium Meta bi sulphite 

• Sodium metabisulfite is used as a bleaching agent in pulp and textile manufacture, as well as a reducing agent .
• Sodium metabisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the garment from potassium permanganate.

 

Softener 

Function of softener 

• The purpose of adding ‘fabric softeners’ at the end of the washing process is to neutralise the very small amounts of detergents left in the textiles and thus prevent static electricity.

 

• Another main function of the softener is creating softer handle over the garments, it is obtained because when softener is applied on the garments then the each and every treads tends to slip over another.
• Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.

 

Enzyme 
The trend today is towards garment processing. This is because garment processing offers the processor better and more varied opportunities to add value to the garments in terms of fashionable looks as well as feel. In such a fast changing scenario, Enzymes are playing an important role.

Functions of Enzyme:

• Develop ‘’Bio-polishing’’ effect on denim in echo-friendly way
• Enzyme improves the ‘’Anti-pilling’’ properties.
• It attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.
• It increases the color fastness and rubbing fastness properties.
• Achieve high-low abrasion to produce fading effect in sewing area. 2
• It just hydrolysis the cellulose, first it attacks the projecting fiber then the yarn portion inside fabric and faded affect is produced.
• It reduces GSM of the garment.
• Neutral enzyme is used for Dark shade enzyme wash because it comes fading effect slowly.
• It produces buyer loving soft feel in use.
• Acid enzyme is used for medium /light shade Enzyme wash of denim skirt because it comes enzyme effect quickly than neutral enzyme.FOB

Bleaching Powder 
Color is produced by molecules which contain chromophores and bleach works upon these molecules to achieve the whitening effect. Oxidizing bleach breaks down the molecules with chromophores and make them incapable of absorbing any visible light, while reducing bleach converts the double-bonded chromophore to single-bonded, thus making them incapable of absorbing visible light. The same principle is behind the bleaching action of sunlight. The high energy photons of light affects the bonds of chromophores, which in turn results in the gradual fading of color .

 

 

Hydrogen Peroxide 
Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some perhydroxhylion, which discolor the colouring materials and as a result fading effect is developed. Hydrogen peroxide is used in scouring, bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric garments. It is used also neutralized the garment from alkaline condition. 

 

Fucntion of Hydrogen Peroxide 
A. Hydrogen peroxide is created in the atmosphere when ultraviolet rays from the sun hit oxygen in the presence of moisture. It is basically the same chemical make up as water but with an extra

 

B. Hydrogen peroxide has antibacterial and antiviral qualities and is a strong bleach. The most common form is three to six percent hydrogen peroxide solution and this works best in the home as an all-purpose cleaner. 

• Antibacterial
• Antifungal
• Kills mold
• Kills mildew

Silicone Softener
Clothing manufacturers and consumers began to see the value in fabric softeners, and an industry was born. Products like these have evolved to meet additional consumer needs, with the addition of fresh scents, dyes and the ability to reduce wrinkles, make ironing easier, and added stain protection.

The typical product contains chemicals and additives to make the fabric soft and static free. Traditionally, the chemicals deposit themselves onto the fabric, but recent formulas use technology that allows the fabric softener to actually penetrate the fabric. This improves the absorption of the fabric, which in the past has been compromised by use of these products. 

Different types of Chemicals used in Meridian washing plant Ltd:

     Enzyme

     Acetic acid [CH₃-COOH]

     Detergent

     Ant staining agent

     Bleaching powder  [Ca(OCl)CL]

     Sodium hyposulfite [Na₂S₂O₂]

     Caustic soda [NAOH]

     Soda ash [Na₂CO₃]

     Sodium bicarbonate [NaHCO₃]

     Potassium permanganate [KMnO₄]

     Cationic/ nonionic flax softener

     Salt

     Buffer

     Hydrogen peroxide [H₂0₂]

     Stabilizer

     Fixing agent

     Resin

     Desizing agent

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caustic Soda (NaoH) : 

1.      Caustic created the role in bleach technique without colour change the garments.

2.      Caustic has a cleaning power which is more powerful then soda Ash.

3.      Fadding affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments.

Soda Ash (Na2Co3) :

1.      Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye. 

2.      It has also a cleaning power.  

3.      It has also help colour fadding affect of garments.

Detergent:

Here detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. Detergent removes the impurities from the garments fabric surface. During coming these impurities, some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed or printed area of the garments. As a result fadding affect will be developed. 

Acidic Acid (CH3COOH) :  

 

Acidic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.

Flax Softner (Cationic, Nonionic) :

Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties. 

Different types of Washing process  washing plant:

1.      Normal wash

2.      Stone wash

3.      Enzyme stone wash

4.      Acid wash

5.      Bleach wash

6.      Hand Scrapping

7.      PP spray

8.      PP sponging

9.      Overall wrinkle

10. Grinding

11. Tagging

 

 

Brief  Discussion about this Washing process:

Normal wash :

Objective of Normal Wash:

     To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

     To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.

     For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.

     To achieve buyer washing standard.

First step

     Lot size…………………70 kg twill/canvas garment

     Add water, L:R= 1:8-10…….560-700 liter

     Machine running

     Add detergent, 0.5 gm/liter…………..280-350gm

     Temperature………….sometime cold and sometime 40∙c to 60∙c

     Time………………….5 to 10 minutes

     Drop the liquor

     Cold wash.

Second step

     Add water, L:R= 1:6…….…….420 liter

     Washing machine running

     Add Fax softener, 0.6 gm/liter…………..252 gm

     Add acetic acid, 0.5gm/liter……………..210 gm

     Time………………….5 to 10 minutes

     Drop the liquor

     Unload the garments on trolley.

Third Step: Hydro Extraction  (700-900 rpm)

Hyrdro-extractor is used to remove excess water from the Garments.

Frouth step: Steam dryer / Gas dryer.

·        Load on steam dryer- 50 kg

·        Temperature: 60-70⁰c

·        Time: 40-50mts for dry

·        Time: 10-15 mts for cold dry

Or

 

·        Load on gas dryer – 50 kg,

·        Running the machine

·        Temperature: 70-85 ⁰c

·        Time: 30-35mts for dry

·        Time:10-15 mts for cold dry.

Fifth step:

After drying, quality is checked and good quality Garments will be delivered to Garments factory.

 

Bleach Wash:

Bleach wash or light stone wash refers to light blue shades of denim. The additional step is bleaching to stone wash. This bleaching is usually carried out by strong oxidizing agents. In industry, most widely used chemicals are sodium hypo-chlorite, calcium hypo-chlorite, hydrogen per oxide and potassium permangate.

Bleach washed Jeans

 Bleach Wash Process of Garments:

A process of bleach wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:

First Step: Pre-treatment/Desizing

1.      Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

2.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

3.      Start the machine.

4.      Temperature.................... 60°c

5.      Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

6.      Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre..... 540 gm.

7.      Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.

8.      Drop the liquor.

 Second Step: Hot Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

2.      Temperature....................................... 60°c.

3.      Time................................................... 5 mts.

Third Step: Bleaching

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

2.      Machine running.

3.      Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre.. 4800 Gms.

4.      Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre ............................... 2400 Gms.

5.      Temperature............................................................ 60°c.

6.      Time (Depend upon the shade).................... 12 to 15 mts.

7.      Drop the liquor.

8.      Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fourth Step: Neutral Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.......................... 540 litres.

2.      Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ....... 1620 Gms.

3.      Temperature ......................................................... 40°c.

4.      Time (Depend upon the shade).............. 10 to 12 mts.

5.      Drop the liquor.

6.      Rinse one.

 

Fifth Step: Soft Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

2.      Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 288 Gms.

3.      Cationic softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 480 Gms.

4.      Time................................ 5 mts.

5.      Drop the liquor.

6.      Unload the garments to trolley.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sixth Step: Hydroextractor Machine 
Hydroextraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments. 

Seventh Step: Drying Machine

1.      Load 40 kg garments

2.      Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.

3.      Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.

4.      Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.

Eighth Step: Delivery  

After quality checking garment will be delivery. 

 

Enzyme Wash: 

Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as catalysts toward specific reactions. What makes very interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view is their high specificity or in other words, their ability to attack selectively a given substrate. 

 

Enzyme washed female pant

Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments of denim garments (amylase to hydrolyze starches and cellulose to degrade in different way's cotton's cellulose) there is another enzyme that can be employed to attack selectively the molecule that constitutes the blue indigo colour resulting ineffective on other kind of dyes. 

 

The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis the cellulose, at first it attacks the having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Them it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and fadded affect is produced. 
 

Type of Enzyme:

Mainly two types of enzyme used in Bangladesh. One is Acid Enzyme (liquid) and another is Neutral Enzyme. Neutral Enzyme is two types -a) Powder form b) Liquid form ie, SL Enzyme. 

Acid Enzyme: 

• Acid enzyme colour is slightly brown.
• pH range is 4.5 to 5.5
• Temperature -40°c -55°c.
• Time required 25 mts to 50 mts.
• Enzyme affects come within short time.
• Staining/Bleeding occurs more in garments.
• Production high.

Neutral Enzyme:

• Enzyme is slightly white powder form.
• pH range is 6 to 7.
• Temperature -40°c -60°c.
• Time required 40 to 70 mts.
• Enzyme affects come slowly.
• Less staining/bleeding on garments.
• With pumic stone comes good affect/abrasion on garments.
• In dark shade enzyme affect comes good.

SL Enzyme:

• SL enzyme is liquid form.
• pH range is 6 to 7.
• Temperature range 40°c -60°c.
• Time required 45 to 80 mts.
• Enzyme affects come slowly.
• Less staining/bleeding on garments.
• With pumic stone come better affect.
• In dark shade enzyme affect comes good.

Objects of Enzyme Wash:
Enzyme wash is required for the following reasons:-

• To remove the size materials from the garments.
• To remove the starch presents on the garments fabrics.
• To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in sewing area.

 

• Enzyme attack as chemically not mechanically for this reason low damage/wastage then stone wash.
• For soft feeling to wear the garment.
• To achieve the buyer reference sample.
• To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.
• Especially develop the "Bio-Polishing" affect of cotton/denim.
• Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
• Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.

Enzyme Washing Process:
I have also written article on Enzyme Wash in medium shade. The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men's long pants (Trouser) are described below:- 

First Step:Desizing

1.      Lot weight (80 pes) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.

2.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 9 .............. 540 Litre

3.      Machine Running.

4.      Temperature.......................... 60°c.

5.      Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

6.      Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litre.................... 432 gm.

7.      Time...............................10--20 mts.

8.      Drop the liquor.

9.      Wash 1 time by cold water.

Second Step:Enzyme

1.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litre

2.      Temperature.......................... 45°c.

3.      Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ................... 270 gm.

4.      Add Anti back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre........ 270 gm.

5.      Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre ................ 900 gm.

6.      Time .............. (Depend upon the shade )...40--60 mts.

7.      Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).

8.      Drain the bath.

9.      Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Third Step:Softening

1.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 ..................... 450 Litre.

2.      Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 270 gm.

3.      Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 450 gm.

4.      Temperature................................... Cold.

5.      Time ................................................ 15 to 20 mts.

 

6.      Drain the bath.

7.      Then unload the garments on trolley.

Fourth Step:Hydroextractor Machine 
After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments. 

Fifth Step:Drying Machine

1.      Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

2.      Temperature set -75°c to 85°c.

3.      Run about 40 mts.

4.      After then run 10 mts in cold dryer.

Sixth Step: Delivery 

After dryer, garment goes to quality section for quality checking and good one delivery.

 

 

Acid Wash:

 

During Acid wash, pumic stones are used. By the action of pumic stones, irregular fading affect is developed on the heavy garments like denims, thick canvas/twill, and sweater. The pumic stones act a brushing action on the garment fabric surface. The area where more brushing action takes place there more dicolour or fadding affect is developed and the area where less brushing action takes place less brushing action and takes place less fadding affect will be developed. The multi-layer fabric areas like –collar, calf, pocket, placket, side seam etc area will be brushed more than the single layer areas. As a result irregular fadding affect will be developed on the garments fabric surface. Thus in this way fading affect may be developed on the garment by acid wash technique.

 

Acid washed pant

 

 

Objects of Acid Wash: 
1. To produce irregular fading effects or old looking effect. 
2. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness. 
3. To achieve the buyer washing standard. 
4. To increase rubbing fastness. 

Acid Wash Process:
A processor Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:- 

First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing. 

1.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 litres.

2.      Start Machine.

3.      Add desizing agent @ 1 gm/litre .................600 Gms.

4.      Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 600 Gms.

5.      Temperature............................. 60°c.

6.      Time........................... 20 mts.

7.      Drop the liquor.

8.      Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).

Second Step:Hot wash 

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 10.............. 600 litres.

2.      Temperature............................. 60°c.

3.      Time........................... 5 mts.

4.      Drop the liquor.

5.      Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.

6.      Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley.

7.      Load the pre treated garments in the dryer m/c.

8.      Dry the garment completely & unload the garments.

9.      The pumic stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:

10. Water ..................... 100 L

11. Potassium per manganate.............. 1000 Gms.

12. Phosphoric Acid............................... 250 Gms.

13. Stire the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumic stone.

14. Soak the stones with the chemical solution ......... 10 –15 minutes.

15. The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for.............. 2 to 3 hrs.

16. Then pre-treated garment 30 –40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.

17. Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.

18. Start machine running for each batch ........................ 7 to 10 mts.

19. Stop machine running.

20. Unload the treated garment separately. Pumic stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface as a result fadding will be developed.

 

 

Third Step:Wash for Cleaning 

1.      Batch wt................................ 70 kg.

2.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.

3.      Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre .............560 Gms.

4.      Temperature............................. 40°c -50°c.

5.      Time ..................................10 mts.

6.      Drop the liquor.

7.      Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garment surface.

Fourth Step:Whitening/Neutralization

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.

2.      Machine running.

3.      Add Metabisulphite @ 5 gm/litre..... 2800 Gms.

4.      Cold temperature.

5.      Time 5 mts.

6.      Drop the liquor.

Fifth Step: Soft Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 litres.

2.      Machine running.

3.      Add Acetic acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 294 Gms.

4.      Add Softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 490 Gms.

5.      Then unload the garments.

Sixth Step: Hydro Extractor Machine 

• Hydro extractor machine to remove excess water from the garments.

Seventh Step: Dryer Machine. 

• After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.

Eighth Step: Quality & Delivery. 

• After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one delivery.

Precaution:

• Maintain the stock solution properly constant when comes socking the stone.

 

• No water licks age in to the machine when treated pumic stone & garments in to the machine.
• Not excess load the garments in the Acid wash processing.
• Add some new stone after finishing on batch to maintain the volume for 2nd batch. It is a matter of experience. 

Stone Wash:

 

In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more unique appearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the wash bath. A variety of natural and synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the most widely used being pumice or volcanic rock. As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over a period of time. The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually abrade the inside of the rotary drum. A machine used for stonewashing should not be used to dye delicate articles or when abrasion would be detrimental to the fabric.

 

Object of Stone Washing: 

1.      To create or produce irregular fading or old looking affect on garments.

2.      To remove dust, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

3.      For soft felling to wear the garments i.e; to improve softness.

4.      To achieve the buyer washing standard.

PUMIC STONE

       When the impurities amount will be 10% of a pumic stone its 

density increases to 1 gm/cm^3.   Then the stone will not float.

      Alternative of pumic stone: SYNTHETIC STONE

      Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /

      Dia.of stone-1-7 cm

      Moisture content-less than 5%

      Surface properties-less than 5% fines

      Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3

      Abrasion loss-35%

      Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.

      Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate

         items.

 

Procedure of Stone Washing:

1. Load stones into machine. 
2. Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones:1 part weight

 

 

 

garments). 
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. Liquor ratio approximately 5-8:1. 
4. Rinse. 
5. Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending upon desired effect. Liquor ratio 5-8:1 at 50-70◦C. Scouring additives can also be used. 
6. Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine). 
7. Rinse. 
8. Apply softener (garments can be transferred to another machine for softening). 
9. Extract and unload. 
10. De-stone and tumble dry. 
11. Press, if required. 

Softeners and/or lubricants can be added during steps three and five to reduce creasing potential. Steps 8, 9, and 10 may vary depending upon individual mill arrangement. 


Stonewash with Chlorine:

By incorporating chlorine in the stonewash procedure, a color reduction of the indigo (or other chlorine sensitive dyestuff) is obtained. It is very important that any residual chlorine be removed before drying to prevent fiber degradation. This is accomplished by using an antichlor step with sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide. 


Working Procedure:
1. Load stones into machine. 
2. Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones:1 part garments). 
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent (liquor ratio approximately 10:1). 
4. Rinse. 
*5. Refill and add sodium or calcium hypochlorite. 
6. Heat to 55◦C. 
7. Tumble 15 minutes. 
8. Add second portion of sodium or calcium hypochlorite. 
9. Tumble 15 minutes, maintaining temperature of 55◦C. 
10. Drain. 
11. Rinse well. 
12. Antichlor with sodium bisulfite or hydrogen peroxide. 
13. Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine). 
14. Rinse well. 
15. Apply softener. 
16. Extract and unload. 
17. De-stone and tumble dry. 
18. Press, if required. 

* Amount of sodium or calcium hypochlorite required will vary depending upon desired level of bleach down and the sensitivity of the color to chlorine. Each addition can range from 0.075% to

0.225% available chlorine. pH should be kept above 9.0, preferably 10.5-11.0. This is accomplished with the addition of soda ash with each addition of hypochlorite. 

Stone Enzyme Wash:

 

Now in our Bangladesh maximum Denim garment washing is done by stone enzyme wash. It is most popular wash for Buyer. 

Objects of Stone Enzyme Wash: 
1. To create irregular fading affect on old looking affect on garments. 
2. To remove dust, dart, oil spot, impurities from the garments. 
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness. 
4. To achieve the buyer washing standard. 
5. To remove the size materials from the garments. 
6. To improve anti-pilling properties. 

Process of  Stone Enzyme Wash:

A process of stone enzyme wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:

 

First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing

1.      Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

2.      Add water @ L: R = 1 : 9 ............................ 540 litres.

3.      Start the machine.

4.      Temperature.................... 60°c

5.      Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre................. 324 gm.

6.      Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre ......... 540 gm.

7.      Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.

8.      Drop the liquor.

Second Step: Hot Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

2.      Temperature.................................... 60°c.

3.      Time................................................. 5 mts.

Third Step:

1.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 480 litres.

2.      Add pumic stone @ ½ vol of garments.

3.      Add Enzyme @ 1.50 gm/litre ..................... 720 Gms.

4.      Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre .................. 288 Gms.

5.      Add Antistain @ 0.8 gm/litre ..................... 384 Gms.

 

6.      Temperature......................................... 40°c to 50°c

7.      Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 60 to 70 mts.

8.      Then temperature raise to 90°c for 1 minute.

9.      Drop the liquor.

10. Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

11. Then pumic stone out from washing machine

Fourth Step: Bleaching

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

2.      Machine running.

3.      Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre ....4800 gms.

4.      Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre................................ 2400 gms.

5.      Temperature........................................................... 60°c.

6.      Time (Depend upon the shade) ..................... 12 to 15 mts.

7.      Drop the liquor.

8.      Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fifth Step: Neutral Wash

1.      Add water @ L: R = 1: 9 ............................ 540 litres.

2.      Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ....... 1620 Gms.

3.      Temperature..................................................... 40°c.

4.      Time ............................................................. 10 to 12 mts.

5.      Drop the liquor.

6.      Rinse one.

Sixth Step: Soft Wash

1.      Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. ..............480 litre.

2.      Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 288 Gms.

3.      Cationic softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 480 Gms.

4.      Time................................ 5 mts.

5.      Drop the liquor.

6.      Unload the garments to trolley.

Seventh Step: Hydroextractor Machine

• Hydro extraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Eighth Step: Drying Machine

1.      Load 40 kg garments

2.      Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.

 

3.      Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.

 

4.      Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.

Ninth Step:Delivery

• After quality checking garment will be delivery. 

 WRITE DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING FAULTS:

 

  Color shade variation.

  Crease Marks.

  After wash hole.

  Very dark & very light.

  Bleach Spot.

  Bottom hem & course edge destroy.

  Running shading.

  Over blasting / low Blasting.

  Over grinding / low grinding.

  Bad smell due to poor neutralization.

  Poor hand feel.

  To high hairiness.

  Poor brightness.

  High or low affect / abrasion on garments.

  Spot on garments.

  Out of range / level of ph value of garments.

WHICH DRYER IS SUITABLE TO DRY WHITE READYMADE GARMENTS?

  STEAM DRYER.

  because there is no possibility to occur any stain, yellowish effect.

 

DESCRIBE THE RISK/PROBLEM OF GAS DRYER.

                  The temp of gas dryer can be increased suddenly and it also makes flame.

     So there have high risk to get damage of garments.

                  If the temp of gas dryer is higher, then garments will also be destroyed or loss of   strenth

                  sometime occurs yellowish effect on fabrics so avoided during white coloured garments drying

 

 

 

DESCRIBE THE FAULT/PROBLEM OF GARMENTS IF EXCESS LOAD IN THE WASHING MACHINE.

Washing chemicals will not work properly so desizing/fading/bleaching/softening will not achieve as required level.

 

 WHAT  is PP SPRAY?

                     By spray gun potassium permanganate is sprayed on garments surface.

                    Chemical composition: 10g kmno4 in 1 litre solⁿ with 1% lubricant.

                     After desizing pp is done then neutralized by oxalic acid.

                     Very much body hazard.

                     High production rate.

 

 WHAT is PP SPONGING?

                    Buyer recommended PP Sponging avoiding ppspray

                    But manufacturer ignored it because PP sponging has low production

                    Manually by sponge potassium permanganate is get touched with garments

before main enzyme wash and after desizing and hot wash.

 

 WHAT is WHISKERING?

     It is known as CAT’s whisker, Moustache, Honeycomb.

     Its another form that shows a worn effect but fashionable garments.

 

Steps of Whiskering:

                   Plot  the design (buyer) on a tracing paper

                  Transfer the design on ply wood

                   Place the rubber sheet on ply wood  as the design on ply wood

                  Attach rubber with wood by gum to make the pattern

                  Enter the pattern in front opening of pant

                  Rub by emery paper (300,400,500) ppm

 

 WHAT is TAGGING?

     Tag the garments (before washing) import fashionable effect after washing.

     In high temperature process tag is done by knotting, high effect occur.

     In low temperature process tag is done by tag gun, less effect occur

 

 

 

 

 

 

 WHAT is GRINDING?

     By grinding machine totally damaged the edge of pocket,hem.

 

WHAT is DESTROY?

     By destroy gun a little portion (small line/circle/shape) is damaged.

     After destroy tou can only see the weft (white) yarn portin.

     Very much experinced labour are required.

 

TYPES OF FABRICS ARE SUITABLE FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE

     Dense woven fabrics normally (twill like DENIM, plain like BABY FROK)

     Single jersey ( rare case )

 

 THE CHEMICAL NAME FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE ON THE GARMENT.

             Stock solutions for Resin solution is 300g resin in 700L water.

                   Wetting agent                            : 0.5% owf

                       Resin                                      : 6-10% owf

                       Softener                                  : 3-5% owf

                       Water                                     : 60-80 liters 

 

THE STANDARD TEMPERATURE FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE ON THE OVEN

     160 ⁰C(std.)  / 40 to 60 ⁰C  (usual in HAMS)

 

 

THE STANDARD TIME IS REQUIRED FOR PERMANENT WRINKLE IN THE OVEN

     15 min (std.)    /30 min 

 

 

Wrinkle

 

A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide, is a fold, ridge or crease in the cloth or garments. Wrinkle is a particular type of pressure in the finished fabric. It is produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam used to join pieces for processing. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric is a desirable attribute, but it is not easily measured quantitatively. Wrinkle resistance varies from quite low in many fabrics to very high in resilient fabrics. In order to form a wrinkle, a fabric’s wrinkle resistance must be overcome. The fabric may, however, produce strains and store potential energy that can become evident as wrinkle recovery under suitable conditions. 

 

 

 

 

 

Wrinkled T-shirt

 

There are two types of wrinkle process:

1.      Permanent Wrinkle Process

2.      Overall Wrinkle Process

 

Permanent Wrinkle Process:

 

1.      Generally permanent wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process wash in dry position.

2.      Permanent wrinkle is done on the garments made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill,

3.      Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit & Polyester etc.

4.      For permanent wrinkle we are use resin which is spray on garments particular/specific areaby nozzle.

5.      Resin is diluted with water which is recommended by chemical supplier, generally 20% resin& 80% water.

6.      After resin spray on respective area, then fold by buyer demand and clip attached upon the folding area.

7.      Now hangers the garment in to the hanger trolley, Trolley capacity approx. 80-100 pcs garments.

8.      Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.

9.      Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 20-40 minutes (if folding layer is less,

10. Less time required, if folding Layer is more, more time is required).

11. Start the machine.

 

 

12. When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.

13. After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.

 

 

 

14. Now open the door and trolley with garment out from oven.

15. Open the clip from garment and go to quality section for quality checking & delivery.

 

 Overall Wrinkle Process:

 

1.      Generally overall wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process & dry process.

2.      Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, Knit, Polyester, Viscose & Nylon etc.

3.      Now tie the whole garment in tight position by thread.

4.      For overall wrinkle, we are used resin in washing machine with water and run tied garments for 5 to 10 minutes at 50°c temperature.

5.      Then unload the garments from washing machine to trolley for hydro extractor to remove the excess water.

6.      Open the tie or cut the thread.

7.      Now hanger the garments into the hanger trolley. Trolley capacity appreciates 80-100 pcs garments.

8.      Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the Industrial oven.

9.      Set temperature 140°c to 160°c, Time 50-70 minutes.

10. Start the machine.

11. When setting time is over, machines are automatically off.

12. After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 minutes for cold in oven.

13. Now open the door and trolley with garments out from oven and go to quality section,checking & delivery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Limitations:

 

v In the factory we can’t see the all process uniformly.

v Some process is not set up on this factory.

v The safety room is not so perfect for pp spray.

v Washing floor of this factory is not so net & clean.

 

 

 

Conclusion:

 

This factory visit was very much enjoyable & helpful for us. In the future it will help us for our industrial life or job sector. It also increases our knowledge. It helps to understand our theoretically course perfectly. We could be able to see washing process practically.

This factory visit was needed to us for this course.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… The End …